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From mostly flat terrain down-Island (eastern end), to hills up-Island (western end), you will find the Vineyard a beautiful place to explore with a bike.
The dark lines on this map indicate the main bike paths. You can of course bike the other parts of the Island but those roads are shared with cars. From short rides flat rides like the 3 miles from Edgartown to South Beach (Katama), or long hilly rides like the 20 miles across MV from Oak Bluffs to Aquinnah… you can find a terrain and mileage that meets your criteria. Martha’s Vineyard is 100 sq miles, it cannot be biked in a day.. at least not to my knowledge.
One of the prettiest bike paths is the 6 mile stretch from Oak Bluffs to Edgartown… for a good part of the ride the ocean is on one side and Sengekontacket Pond on the other… it’s just lovely. Another pretty ride is the 8.5 mile ride from Edgartown to W Tisbury which goes alongside the state forest
You can rent bikes at several locations in Oak Bluffs, Edgartown and Vineyard Haven.
So get a bike, grab a map and let biking on the Vineyard put a smile on your face.
Happy Mother’s Day
On Saturday, June 14, 2008 the MV Chamber of Commerce will hold its first ever lighthouse challenge. This is a great opportunity to see all five lighthouses of Martha’s Vineyard.
Tickets include admission to four of the five lighthouses… West Chop is closed due to unsafe conditions but the grounds are open. The $95 ticket includes the opening night reception as well as the Sunday morning awards ceremony.
Click here to find out more information about the challenge and read about the history of the lighthouses.
This is a great way to not only see the lighthouses but to enjoy the beauty of the Vineyard as well.
My friend Seamond is the daughter of the last lighthousekeeper at West Chop… I am hoping she adds one of her delightful and informative comments to this post. Take it away Seamond…
A few images of the Vineyard in April.
Carly Simon, who is a long time resident of Martha’s Vineyard was in NYC to perform at Joe’s Pub on April 29th, the day her new CD “This Kind of Love” came out. I was lucky enough to be there and share in the excitement of the show.
Joe’s Pub is very small and intimate, it’s dark and cozy but not exactly photo friendly… I did my best.
Accompanying Carly were her son Ben Taylor, Jimmy Webb, Peter Calo, Jimmy Parr, Ben Saw and a beautiful young woman whose name I’m sorry to say I forget (I think she’s Carly’s manager) and if I forgot anyone I’m truly sorry. The almost two hour show consisted of a blend of new songs and old familiar ones. The title song from “This Kind of Love” is very lush and I love the Brazilian beat. They brought down the house though with a new arrangement of “You’re So Vain” which in the opinion of everyone there, should be recorded.
As is usually the case when you’re having a really good time, it eventually comes to an end. I’m glad I was there, congrats to Carly on a wonderful new CD and here’s to friends she helped bring together.
The Agricultural Society was begun in 1858. The Agricultural Hall, or Ag Hall as it’s commonly known, is located in W Tisbury. This building is a 100 year old post and beam barn that was transplanted from New Hampshire in 1997 piece by piece.
This picture which hangs in the entry foyer of the Ag Hall depicts a barn raising scene.
Posts and beams.
The inside of the building is huge. This is where the annual MV Agricultural Fair is held every August. Weddings, artisan shows, pot luck suppers, and meetings are just a few of the things the hall is used for.
On Sunday, the day after the festival we were invited by Susan and Patrick to visit the farm and see the babies who were too young to be at the festival. Oooooooooohhhhhhh, just look at these sweet baby faces.
The moms kept an eye on us, especially on Chappy, but let the kids come and sniff at us and let us pet and snuzzle them.
Oregano is Logan’s favorite and it looks like the feeling is mutual.
Susan and the kids.
And so there you have it, just a few of the babies born so far this year. All the names for these cuties were herbs and spices. Among them, Basil, Chive, Sage, twin girls named Saffron & Sassafras, Cilantro, Tarragon, boy and girl twins named Rosemary & Oregano, Juniper, and dear sweet sprig of Parsley who we miss. (If I forgot anyone I’m really, really sorry).
The Martha’s Vineyard Fiber Farm held its first fiber festival this past Saturday, April 19, 2008. It was a smashing success in my opinion and of everyone I talked with.
The people behind the success of the farm and the festival are Susan Gibbs and Patrick Manning pictured here with Patrick’s younger son Logan (older son Harry isn’t pictured). Susan and Patrick and many others worked tirelessly to put together a terrific event, there wasn’t anything they could have done differently… including the stunningly beautiful day they ordered. A 70 degree, bright sunny day with a gentle breeze in the middle of April on Martha’s Vineyard… the weather gods were kind indeed.
The sheep and goats and the older kids (goat, not human) were already out and about when we got there a little before 10 am. In the picture to the right you’ll notice they’ve closed ranks around one of the young kids and are all focusing their attention in one direction.
They are staring at Chappy, our Boykin Spaniel who to them is a predator. Chappy on the other hand is looking at them increduously and wondering, what the heck are these animals?
Whenever Deb and Chappy moved to another spot the sheep would move and face them… it was really interesting.
I’d never seen sheep sheared before and it’s very interesting. The sheep look almost in a Zen state while they’re being sheared and having their hooves clipped. The wool is mostly in one piece when the shearing is finished, it’s amazing. The wool is so soft you can hardly feel it and it’s still a little warm to the touch.
This is Patrick holding Basil, kid number 4 born in February (if I’m wrong about this Susan I’m really, really sorry). Basil is the softest creature I’ve ever touched, next to Chappy of course. He quickly charmed all the shareholders and everyone wanted to hold him a get a little kid kiss from him.
A before and after picture… unshorn to the right, naked to the left. They really seemed happy to get their coats off.
Chappy not only met sheep and goats but an Island dog named Fritz. Each time they saw each other their tails would wag and they’d do a little bit of playing.
Among some of the festival goers were Sally Taylor, her husband Dean Bragonier and their son Bodhi.
One of the many nice touches that Susan and Patrick thought of was having the shearing stop for lunch. It gave everyone a chance to meet up with one another and socialize a bit. They set up long tables in the entry of the Ag Hall. We wound up eating with Susan and this delightful group of shareholders, who all pulled out their knitting after we ate. We met so many nice people and it was hard to remember everyone’s names except for 11 month old Nora and her mom Kate. The incredibly delicious food was provided by the Scottish Bakehouse… I had one of the best turkey/Swiss wraps ever.
The shearing is done, the day is winding down and so is this post. I have lots more to add so stay tuned but in the meantime enjoy some pictures here and go over to my daughter’s blog at Chappy’s mom to enjoy her posts and pictures about the festival.
Check out the articles from the Wall Street Journal and the Vineyard Gazette.
Just returned from a short but very sweet weekend on MV. The reason for going was to attend the MV Fiber Farm’s first fiber festival and it was fantastic.
Posts (yes, plural) and pictures to come in the next day or so…. stay tuned.
The sign to the ferry in Woods Hole.
The ferries themselves ready to go.
Off to the Vineyard… will be back in a few days.
On October 27, 2007 I wrote a post about how Martha’s Vineyard supposedly got her name… it was cleverly titled “Naming Martha.”
Since that post there has been a story published in the Vineyard Gazette about how Martha got its apostrophe. Not earth shattering news perhaps but still interesting due to the fact that it is protected by federal decree and that only four places in the United States have been granted a legal apostrophe.
Reached at his home this week, Arthur Railton, former editor of the Dukes County Intelligencer, mused on the use of the apostrophe and its placement in the Island name. “An apostrophe suggests ownership, and Martha never owned a vineyard of course, so I don’t know how it got there,” he said. “I’m glad it’s there,” he continued. “Without an apostrophe, it seems like a different name. With the apostrophe, it makes it sound as though it is Martha’s vineyard, but without the apostrophe, I don’t know what it would be.”
If your interest is piqued then read the entire article here.
I am not the most patient of people… especially when a trip to MV is upcoming. I do try to contain myself but it’s hard when my head and heart are so focused on getting there.
I’m trying to incorporate the words seen here in a window display at Sanctuary in Oak Bluffs, into my goal of being calm and not driving those around me crazy with my anxiousness.
”IMAGINE” - I always imagine myself on MV, it’s part of who I am. I think about where I’ll go and what I might do and where I’ll be staying. I picture myself doing my favorite things and having new adventures.
“Enjoy The Journey” - part of the experience of going to MV is getting to MV. The travel routine is pretty well set. There’s always a stop in Mystic, CT for lunch and when Chappy is with us to give him a chance to stretch his legs. One of the favorite parts of the journey is driving down Route 28 from Falmouth to Woods Hole. There’s something about this two lane road that makes me smile and makes my heart race as I get closer to the ferry to MV. Once on the ferry the final part of the transition from mainland to Island begins.
“BREATHE” - something I almost have to remember to do as I get closer to MV. Once I’m there for awhile I relax… at least my version of relaxing, my family thinks otherwise.
“FAITH” - I have faith that I will return to the Vineyard. I have faith that I will always find peace and contentment there. I have faith that I am renewed there. I have faith that it will always, somehow, be in the lives of my family.
Part of the excitement of a trip to MV for me are most of the steps leading to the trip itself.
In 10 days we will be on our way to the Vineyard for a long weekend. The main reason for going is the MV Fiber Festival on April 19th. Once we decided we could make the trip I got busy and started setting the preparations in motion.
First was to find a place to stay that takes dogs. MV is a pet friendly island but not all places accept four-legged guests.
We’ve chosen Bradys, a sweet looking B&B located in Oak Bluffs.
Second step is to secure the all important ferry tickets.
If luck holds true for us we’ll make an earlier ferry then the one we have reservations for… extra time on MV is always a good thing. We will either be on the newest ferry, Island Home which is just over a year old… or we’ll be on the Martha’s Vineyard.
For me the third step is the hardest…packing. I hate to pack, yes, even when going to MV. I make myself crazy packing, rethinking, repacking, redeciding what to bring and checking MV weather websites. Somehow though I always manage to get it all together. Besides, if I forget anything, or the weather changes then I have an excuse to do some shopping.
These are the kind of signs you expect to see on MV. But another kind of “sign” is also associated with the Vineyard… signing for the deaf.
There was an unusally high number of deaf people on Martha’s Vineyard starting as far back as the 17th century. Some early settlers carried the gene for deafness and over the years generation after generation of children were born deaf.
Hearing Had to Learn Sign
If you could create a deaf utopia, what would it be like?Everyone would communicate in sign language, both deaf and hearing. Many, if not most, children would be born deaf.Deaf Utopia Did ExistThere actually was such a place once. It was an isolated island off the Massachusetts coast - Martha’s Vineyard…
Martha’s Vineyard created MVSL (Martha’s Vineyard Sign Language) which later merged with the American Sign Language.
Sign language was used freely on the Vineyard by hearing and deaf residents alike. Deafness on MV peaked in 1854 and around 1952 the last person born deaf died.
The book “Everyone Here Spoke Sing Language” by Nora Ellen Groce is an interesting and informative telling of the deaf community on Martha’s Vineyard.
This is my daughter Deb standing outside the Stephen Huneck gallery that used to be on the Vineyard. The picture in the window is perfect for her. She is, to put it mildly, obsessed, with a capital Obsession, with her Boykin Spaniel, Chappy.
We surprised her a few months later with a print for her birthday.
Stephen Huneck is a fantastic artist and sculptor, we had the honor of meeting him at a book signing a few years ago and he not only autographed his latest book for us but he…
… drew a sketch of Chappy inside the cover.
We’ve purchased a few of Stephen Huneck’s paintings over the years. I particularly like this one because of its Vineyard theme. Didn’t you always wonder where all the Black Labs on MV came from !
Here are two of his sculptures that have significance for us. Before we had our chocolate brown Boykin Spaniel, represented here by the dog on the left, we had miniature Dachshunds, represented by the dog on the right. I love the corner doxie, he’s definitely a conversation starter.
Boats are important for getting to an island. You can get there by plane, you can’t get there by train, you can only bring your car so far and then you need… a boat.
Drive your car onto a ferry and you’re good to go.
The Rotterdam from the Islander.
The Katama from the Islander.
Harbor boats.
Big boats.
Little boats.
Artistic boat and whale tail.
Boat at night.
3 car ferry.
And …
!!!!!!!!
Chappaquiddick is a small island off the bigger island of Martha’s Vineyard.
To get there it’s about a 2 or 3 minute ride from Edgartown on one of two On Time ferries. They are called On Time because there is no schedule so whenever they run… they’re on time.
Once you’re on Chappaquiddick, otherwise known as Chappy, you’ll want to check out the beaches.
This is my daughter and her dog Chappy doing just that.
See the beautiful Mytoi Japanese garden.
Visit Cape Poge lighthouse.
Boating, biking, hiking, spending time at the beach… Chappaquiddick is a nice place to get away to…
… and then head back to Edgartown.
In the Campground in Oak Bluffs sits the Tabernacle and across from it is Trinity Methodist Church. Trinity Methodist was built in 1878, a year before the Tabernacle was erected. They have shared the same grassy circle known as Trinity Park for 129 years.
I spent my childhood summers on Martha’s Vineyard and many of those summers I spent my mornings at Bible School in the Tabernacle. As was the custom a girl and a boy would be chosen each morning to walk from the Tabernacle to Trinity Church and ring the 8 o’clock bell. I waited almost all summer to hear my name called, I didn’t think it was ever going to happen. Finally it did and off across the lawn my partner and I scampered.
Inside the vestibule tied to the staircase railing was the thickest rope I’d ever seen. The rope was attached to the bell way, way, way up in the steeple and the longer we stood there and pondered the situation the higher up the bell seemed to get.
First though we had to untie the rope, it did not go well, we fumbled along and finally the rope was free from the railing. Time was ticking but neither of us were aware of how close to 8 o’clock we were coming.
Now all we had to do was pull the rope and the bell would ring and … well, that did not go well either. Neither one of us had enough weight to pull the rope hard enough to ring the bell. Rope burn was the least of our problems though as now we were sure it was after 8 o’clock and we’d failed our mission. With what strength we had left we both grabbed the rope, stood on one of the steps and jumped. Just as our teacher walked in the door to see what the problem was we heard… bong, bong, bong… it was ringing, the bell was peeling loud and strong, we had succeeded… we had only missed the 8 o’clock bell by… oh 10 or so minutes. Who would notice!
When I got home at lunch time the first thing my mother said was “the 8 o’clock bell was a bit late this morning, do you know who was ringing it this morning?” I said it had been me… she shook her head slowly and said nothing but I did notice a little smile. By the way, I was never asked to ring the bell again.
I had spent the morning walking along South Beach/Katama with my daughter, drawing in the sand and enjoying the solitude of the beach in May. The waves are higher and more intense on the southern side of the Vineyard…but this day the surf was quiet. We were enjoying the peacefulness when I spotted something out of the corner of my eye lying in the sand. As I approached I saw that it was a large stick, at least that was my first thought. Upon closer inspection I discovered that it was more like a walking stick… it was pretty solid and just the right height.
The top was rounded and well worn, the stick itself was dappled with knots. I wondered where it had come from ? Was it originally someone’s Christmas tree that had been brought to the beach to be recycled. Was it then discovered by a beachcomber and fashioned into a walking stick. If so then why was it lying alone in the sand. Had its owner washed out to sea, been abducted by aliens or perhaps the walking stick had magically walked away to seek adventures on its own.
Then again perhaps it had been fashioned for a pirate years ago and had just washed up on the sand after floating aimlessly in the ocean for a century or more. What tales could it tell of galleons filled with gold and jewels… of mutinies on the high seas… of long voyages to foreign shores. My mind was filled with unanswered questions and thoughts of adventure.
From time to time I look at it and wonder what its story is, but alas inanimate objects are stubborn in giving up that information.
The Martha’s Vineyard Fiber Farm, the FIRST fiber CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) in the world is having its FIRST Fiber Festival on Saturday April 19, 2008.
Click here and then click on the Martha’s Vineyard Fiber Fest link for all the information. If you’re on MV or close to MV on April 19th come and enjoy the fun. Here’s just a sample of what’s in store.
Join us on April 19th for the Inaugural Martha’s Vineyard Fiber Fest at the New Ag Hall in W. Tisbury.
The event will run from 10:00 a.m. to 5 p.m.
•Sheep and Angora Goat Shearing
•Demos, Demos and More Demos
•Needle Felting Workshop by Stephanie daRosa of Plum Hill School
•Dyeing Workshop by Rebecca Gilbert of Native Earth Teaching Farm
•Beautiful, Island-grown, hand-spun yarn, fleece and roving.
•Great music and great food!
In the middle of Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs sits the Bandstand, so much the centerpiece of Oak Bluffs that it appears on the town seal.
As beautiful as it is to look at…
…there is work that needs to be done to bring it back to its original glory and to also take care of safety issues. According to an article in the Vineyard Gazette, the Dunkl family who own Chilmark Spring Water stepped up and devoted themselves to the restoration of the Bandstand.
The Dunkls are no strangers to caring for old Vineyard structures. Years ago they were hired to do renovation work on the Flying Horses, built in 1876 and brought to the Vineyard in 1884, the same year the bandstand was built.
I think it’s great that the Bandstand is being lovingly restored and expect that it will stand in the middle of Ocean Park for another 100 years or so.
Today would be my mother’s birthday. She’s the reason MV is in our lives. Although born in Maine she was raised on MV and through her we’ve all come to love the Vineyard.
No words I could find could say so beautifully what my daughter Deb wrote below on her blog today about her grandmother.
Collecting rocks and stones is something you can’t avoid doing as you walk along an Island beach. I admit I didn’t find the one with this poem:
“Weathered posts and sea grass, waves rushing in to kiss the shore; I closed my eyes and peace descends, I’m at The Vineyard once more.”
These beautiful stone sculptures were done by a Native American, whose name unfortunately I’ve forgotten. I asked him how he knows what to sculpt and he told me that he has to get to know the stone first… let it speak to him and tell him what it is meant to be… and only then does he begin the process of letting the spirit emerge from the stone.
This particular stone is double-ended.
The face of a Native American.
The spirit of an eagle.
I particularly like this one. I like the way the face looks peaceful and wise.
Something I find interesting about these sculptures is that when you’re holding them they’re both cool and warm. Perhaps it’s the spirit from within.
Martha’s Vineyard is a great place for a family vacation.
Unlike big crowded theme parks, a trip to the Vineyard is a more laid back kind of vacation.
Being an Island the main attraction is the beach. The best kid friendly one is State Beach on the eastern side of MV between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. The water is mostly shallow and very calm. The beach is great for finding shells and stones and sometimes an elusive piece of sea glass.
Here at Aquinnah (Gay Head) on the western side of MV lying beneath the colorful clay cliffs, the beach is rougher and dotted with large and interesting rocks.
Bicycling is a terrific way to explore the Island. One of the prettiest bicycle paths is right along State Beach between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown… the Atlantic Ocean is on one side and Sengekontacket Pond on the other.
Along the way look for an Osprey’s nest.
Try miniature golf at Island Cove Mini Golf on State Rd just outside of Vineyard Haven, and also try their rock climbing wall.
Some other things to do on MV are. Nature walks and children’s programs at Felix Neck. Watch glass being blown at the Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks. Go ice skating at the MV Arena. Try horseback riding. Tour the lobster hatchery in Oak Bluffs. Spend a few hours at Beadniks in Vineyard Haven creating a one of a kind piece of jewelry.
No matter what your age you’ll want to ride on the Flying Horses.
The Flying Horses in Oak Bluffs are America’s oldest platform carousel dating back to 1884. They are listed on the National Register of Historical Places and belong to the Martha’s Vineyard Preservation Trust. Take a ride on one of these beautifully restored horses rain or shine.
And rain does happen, so what do you do with kids to keep them happy.
Besides the Flying Horses and bookstores there’s always the movies. There are several theatres on MV.. the one pictured here is in Vineyard Haven… Oak Bluffs has two theatres and Edgartown does also.
Shopping is always fun for a little while. Try out Riley’s Reads and the Toy Box both here in Vineyard Haven.
If you take a jaunt over to the smaller island of Chappaquiddick, which is a three minute ferry ride from Edgartown, take time to stroll through Mytoi, the beautiful and peaceful Japanese garden. Also take a guided tour out to Cape Poge lighthouse.
If you’re on MV in the middle of August you can visit the Agricultural Fair It’s amazing to see what the Vineyarders have created… from quilts and homemade jams and jellies to raising livestock. There’s something for everyone, lots of good food, rides to go on, sheep shearing and interesting contests like skillet tossing… something I’ve been tempted to do in my kitchen at times.
So run, play, shop, go swimming and biking, ride on a flying horse or a real one, visit a farm or spend a week as a deck hand on a kids cruise on the Shenandoah or Alabama tall ships. Enjoy all that Martha’s Vineyard has to offer.
As for where to stay… my personal recommendations are. The Island Inn which is about a half mile outside Oak Bluffs on the road to Edgartown. Each unit, no matter the size has a kitchenette which is always great when traveling with kids. They have a playground and large lawns for romping and a nice pool.
The Harborside Inn in Edgartown is nice also. Each room has a mini fridge tucked away in the closet. They have two pools. Also in Edgartown are the Edgartown Lodge and Edgartown Commons.
… or, no inn at the room !!!
About 15 years ago my husband and I decided to visit MV in the middle of March. Why? Because we’d tried in December, gotten as far as Woods Hole and a raging blizzard prevented us from getting any further. To quell my disappointment my husband said we’d try again in a couple of months. We knew the Island would be quiet in March but didn’t realize just how quiet it would be.
We chose to stay here at the Harborside Inn in Edgartown (this is a summer picture). The Harborside is a complex of several buildings, in the winter they would keep only one building open. The building we were in is the middle of the three pictured. We were in the middle room of the top floor.
Edgartown in the winter is quiet and solitary… ok, it’s pretty much deserted. A few restaurants are open, one or two B&B’s, a few stores and not much else. Some of the shops still have displays in their darkened windows, an unfair look at their tempting wares.
We checked in and were told that after 5pm no one would be at the desk. That we could make outgoing calls but incoming calls would go to their answering machine and those messages would be delivered in the morning. This was before cell phones… the dark ages, pre-personal electronic communication devices. And we were warned that if we lost our room keys we’d literally be out in the cold.
We settled in for our first night of quiet and solitude. It eventually occured to me that there was just a little too much quiet. There were no other human noises in the building, no lights on but ours… there was only the creaking of the floors and the eerie screams of the wind against the windows. Were we the only ones at the inn, the only ones in the entire complex? Yes we were, and suddenly the quiet was deafening and the solitude was ominous. Daylight couldn’t come soon enough.
Our first full day on MV we explored the beauty of the Island in winter.. or at least I did with my camera, my husband sought shelter in the car as often as possible. After a delicious dinner we headed back to the inn for the night. The weather forecast was for a winter storm with wind gusts over 60mph. I hoped that the power wouldn’t go out.
And then I heard voices… muffled at first and then clearer. A creak. A door being closed. Water running. A laugh. Could it be, were there other people in the building ! I felt relief. That night despite the howling winds I slept well knowing that we were not alone. I almost felt a bond to these other guests. But in the morning there was no sign of them… no noises from their room next to ours, no creaks or voices, no nothing. Did I dream them, were they real or perhaps visitors from across time and space that previously inhabited this former whaling captain’s home ! The mind runs wild sometimes on a blustery and stormy winter night especially on an Island with a history of hauntings… especially to a person with a vivid imagination.
Union Chapel
Old Whaling Church
Vineyard Haven
Campground
Tabernacle
Oak Bluffs harbor
Oak Bluffs wharf
Edgartown harbor
There’s something about the play of light and dark that catches my eye. I love black & white photography, angles and shadows and the way the sun reflects on objects.
Menemsha is a fishing village located within the town of Chilmark on the western side of Martha’s Vineyard. In 1905 Menemsha Creek was dredged to form the working fishing basin of today.
According to Wikipedia:
…The village’s historic harbor serves as the point of departure for local fishermen, some from multi-generational fishing families, as well as charter boats to the Elizabeth Islands and elsewhere. Besides charter fishing and cruises, other possibilities for recreation are the public beach adjacent to the harbor and the bicycle ferry across Menemsha Pond to Aquinnah. Menemsha is the location of a United States Coast Guard station and was once known as Menemsha Creek.
This sculpture commemorates the sizeable fleet of swordfishermen who at one time called Menemsha home.
The beach at Menemsha is small and quiet with calm waters. Great beach for finding stones and shells.
Menemsha harbor was used for location shots for the movie “Jaws” and was also where Vineyard resident, singer Carly Simon did her 1987 HBO special “Coming Around Again.”
Menemsha is the best place on the Vineyard to enjoy the sunset. And to catch a bite at the Bite.
ferry seats (Islander)
under a tree
chaises await
Restaurant chairs
serene and tranquil
night light
Tabernacle benches
Tabernacle chairs
shopping and rocking
benches in the park
Edgartown was the Island’s first settlement in 1642. Originally called Great Harbour it was a world center for the whaling trade.
Many whaling captains built their homes in Edgartown, many of them today are private homes or beautiful bed and breakfasts.
One of the most beautiful is the Capt Daniel Fisher house, built in 1840, now the home of the Martha’s Vineyard Preservation Trust.
The Old Whaling Church, called that because it was built with whaling money in 1843, is an outstanding example of Greek Revival architecture.
It is used as a performing arts center and one of the highlights of the year is the Christmas Minnesingers concert during the Christmas in Edgartown weekend.
The Federated Church is the Island’s oldest congregation, it was established in 1642. This structure was built in 1828.
The oldest known house on Martha’s Vineyard is the Vincent House now located behind the Whaling Church. It was moved there from its original site The Great Plain area outside Edgartown on the South Shore.
Memorial Wharf with observation deck on the top allows a stunning view of Chappaquiddick and the Edgartown harbor.
Old Sculpin Gallery and hand sculpted Whale’s Tail are across from Memorial Wharf.
Edgartown is charming and elegant.
Walk down the street early on a quiet morning or pull up a chair by the harbor. Edgartown has it all… beautiful places to stay, top notch restaurants, charming shops and art galleries to delight your senses.
Espresso Love in Edgartown is my favorite breakfast place.
I love their blueberry scones so much that I bring them back home to NJ and freeze them. The scone pictured above in all its delicious glory I saved for breakfast on my birthday. The stash is now gone but definitely will be replaced. Often we have Espresso Love coffee beans, that wasn’t the case this year but we do have EL mugs to complete the experience. A few years ago for my birthday my daughter Deb contacted Espresso Love and ordered a dozen blueberry scones, coffee beans and the above mugs to be sent to me. Imagine my surprise and delight when I opened the box and there was my favorite breakfast from my favorite breakfast place on my favorite Island.
Espresso Love isn’t just coffee and scones they serve lunch and in the summer casual evening dining in the garden. If you’re on MV check it out for yourself… you’ll be glad you did. Can’t you just smell the coffee now……………… ahhhhhhhhhhhh.
Birthday Girl
Susan Branch’s first cook book was “Heart of the Home” and once I bought it I was hooked. Not only are there interesting recipes and stories in her books but the illustrations, done by Susan herself are charming and beautiful… they almost make me want to get out my colored pencils… almost.
Here are a few of the 13 books she’s written and illustrated. But that’s not all Susan Branch has to offer.
I enjoy her stickers and stamps so I can be artistic and clever too (these are only a miniscule sampling). Her blank calendar books make great journals.
I can’t begin to list all the merchandise Susan Branch has to offer so go check out her website and see for yourself how talented she is and how inspiring her things are.
Susan Branch used to live year round on Martha’s Vineyard. Now she lives most of the year in California where she has opened a store in Arroyo Grande which is just south of San Luis Obispo… I wonder if she’d ever have a branch (groan) on MV some day !
Birthday gifts are fun especially when they’re for me… especially when they’re a few days early… and especially when they’re Vineyard related. The above poster was put together by my daughter Patty and family. All but three of the pictures are of Oak Bluffs which is my favorite town on MV… not that I don’t love the others too but Oak Bluffs holds a special place in my heart for many reasons.
Thank you to my family for these one of a kind special gifts.
Patty also made this beautiful tote for me using material she purchased from Susan Branch.
Susan Branch started out writing cook books and has branched out (excuse the pun) to so many more things. Check out Susan’s website, you’ll be glad you did.
Baby lamb #1 has arrived at the Martha’s Vineyard Fiber Farm. Her mom’s name is Mary Poppins but she’s unnamed as yet.
She’s the first of the lambs and kids and isn’t she a cutie.
Illumination Night is held every year in the middle of August… this year it’s Wed Aug 20, 2008. If you are on MV you should not miss it, it’s an evening you won’t soon forget.
It all begins here at the Tabernacle in the Campground in Oak Bluffs.
The gingerbread cottages are decked out in Japanese lanterns, many have been passed down from generation to generation, many are even still lit with candles.
The evening begins with music by the Vineyard Haven Band accompanying a lively community sing. After the community sing is over all the lights in the Campground are turned off… a special person who has been already chosen lights the first lantern 
which is then walked up the aisle to the entrance to the Tabernacle and suddenly all the lanterns in the Campground come to life. The Campground is transformed into a magical fairyland delighting…
… kids of all ages. It has always been my favorite event of the summer and it never fails to transform me into a kid again.
I stayed a few times at the Daggett House inn before it was recently renovated and turned into a private residence. One of the things I remember most is their famous Grape Nut bread which my daughter is baking today.
On the lower level of the inn was the breakfast room. According to the Guide to Martha’s Vineyard:
“The room was the first tavern on Martha’s Vineyard to sell beer and ale. In 1660 the taverner, John Daggett, was fined five shillings for “selling strong liquor.” In 1750 the Daggett House was added to the building. Through the years the Daggett House was a custom’s house, a sailor’s boardinghouse, a store, and during the whaling era, a counting house. ”
An interesting feature of the Daggett House was its secret room. I’m not sure what it was used for in the 1600’s or so but during the past years as a B&B it was a guest room … provided they could find the secret door somewhere near the above pictured fireplace !!!
The back of the Daggett House had a nice expanse leading to the edge of Edgartown Harbor. A perfect place to have a breakfast of their delicious Grape Nut bread toast.
Grapenut Bread from the Daggett House.
Now, remember, this recipe was a staple of the Daggett House Bed & Breakfast on Martha’s Vineyard until it closed. They used to readily hand out recipe cards, and the recipe was posted on the MVOL website up until recently–so I’m assuming there are no copyright issues. But just in case they are, I’m giving full credit here to the inn–it’s their recipe!
Makes 2 loaves
Mix:
2/3 c Grapenuts
1/3 c wheat germ
3 T butter
1/4 tsp salt
1/3 c dark brown sugar
1 1/3 c boiling water.
Stir and let cool to barely warm.
Then, combine 1 T yeast, 1 tsp sugar and 2/3 c warm water, and let stand until bubbly.
Add yeast to the dry mixture. Add 4 c all-purpose flour.
Knead until soft and smooth, then return to bowl and let rise, covered, until double in volume.
Punch down and divide into two loaves, knead for a few minutes, and put into greased loaf pans. Let rise until double in size.
Bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes.
The Possible Dreams Auction, held the first Monday in August is to help raise money for the Martha’s Vineyard Community Service organization. This year the August 4, 2008, celebrity studded auction is moving out to club Outerland, located by the MV Airport. This fundraising event supports a wide range of human services to more than 6,000 Island residents and visitors each year.
Let’s back up to 2001, the one and only time I was at the Possible Dreams auction, which for 29 years was held at the Harborside Inn in the center of Edgartown. Guests of the inn didn’t need to purchase a ticket which worked out nicely for my family as we were staying there. Many of the Island celebrities donate an “auction” such as a sail on a yacht, or behind the scenes at a TV show, or tickets to the Super Bowl, or dinner with your favorite author or actor. Walter Cronkite, Norman Bridwell the author of ”Clifford the Big Red Dog” books, Patricia Neal, Ted Danson, Mike Wallace… along with the late Art Buchwald as emcee are just a few of the names to donate their time and talents.
But the biggest name was always Carly Simon … she started a heated bidding war between two gentlemen over peanut butter sandwiches one year. And so, being the fan that I am I staked out my seat on the deck over looking the gardens hours before the auction was to start. There were 50 or so auctions and Carly was #34. Her auction was:
NOBODY DOES IT BETTER… If you’ve ever wanted to WRITE A SONG… let CARLY SIMON help…co-write it and sing it with or without her at her home - in her private studio. CARLY will burn a CD for you to take home. This is for one lucky music-lover and a guest.
The bidding began at $20,000. Three times she sang snippets of songs … she messed up the lyrics to “Jesse” which the crowd laughed at. People started yelling out requests and it turned into a short and sweet mini concert. The final bid was around $55,000.
Clifford the Big Red Dog waving at the crowd as the sun disappears and is replaced by rolling fog.
If you’re on the Vineyard the first Monday of August go and be part of a fun afternoon and help the people of the Vineyard.
Think Spring….
The original Edgartown lighthouse was built on a small man-made island in Edgartown harbor in 1828. For the first year the only way to get to it was by boat until a foot bridge was built. The first structure was replaced in 1938 by one that was brought by raft from Ipswich, MA. Although the new light was placed on the original site, sand had filled in the area between the island and the mainland, and the current lighthouse stands on the shore.
This past year the Edgartown lighthouse, as well as the East Chop lighthouse, have undergone extensive renovations. As reported in the Oct 5, 2007 online issue of the Vineyard Gazette:
“Harmful peeling paint in the interior of the lighthouse has been sandblasted and hauled away. A new marine epoxy has been applied to the 80 cast-iron panels that make up the structure.” “Prior to the recent renovation work, only the beacon shone at night, and the windows below were covered by plywood and painted to look real. Following the renovation it will be open to the public.”
The renovation has been completed, click here to see the progress.
The five lighthouses of MV: Edgartown, West Chop, East Chop, Cape Poge and Aquinnah.
The sound of the Vineyard goes back generations to the music of the Native American Wampanoag’s and the sea chanteys and hymns of early English settlers.
In the 1950’s coffeehouses, like the Mooncusser Cafe in Oak Bluffs popped up as venues for popular folksingers. According to the pamphlet accompanying the Vineyard Sound CD, produced by Peter Simon:
“Around 1960 the Mooncusser became an adjunct to the commercial folk scenes of Boston and New York, drawing young stylists like Judy Collins. These new stars influenced the Vineyard kids who flocked to see them during summer vacations. James Taylor was one of them, along with his many musical siblings. Two girls from New York, Carly Simon and Lucy Simon, formed the Simon Sisters and honed their act at the Mooncusser and elsewhere on the Island. But they were just the ones who went on to become stars. In every Island town there were (and are) musicians who play only for love and friendship, writing new songs and dreaming of hearing them on the radio some day.”
Included on this two-CD set are many of the talented artists making music on the Vineyard. Carly Simon and her son Ben Taylor and her daughter Sally Taylor, whose father is James Taylor. Kate Taylor, sister of James Taylor. Entrain. Johnny Hoy and the Bluefish. Tom Rush. Maynard Silva. Jemima James. Judy Collins with the mother daughter duo of Lucy and Julie Simon. These are just a few of the many talented artists on the CD.
This CD is an eclectic mix of folk music, raggae and some soft rock… it perfectly captures the diversity of the singers and songwriters of Martha’s Vineyard.
Update: Jan 27 .. I was just informed that the CD, Best of The Vineyard Sound is currently out of stock but will be re-issued in April in a slightly altered form.
Of course there’s a vineyard on the Vineyard. In 1971 Chicama Vineyards, founded by Catherine and George Mathiesen became the first bonded winery in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.
The winery is located a little outside of Vineyard Haven on State Road. The road to get there is a little… um, bumpy but well worth the trip. From Memorial Day to Columbus day there are daily tours available, the rest of the year when there are no tours you can still visit their tasting room and shops. It’s always best to check their website for times and days they’re open. Individual tours are available but for groups of 10 or more reservations are required.
Besides their selections of red and white w